The definite article

Just opened in Camberley, The Fish Shop is the latest in a new breed of fishmonger’s that focuses not only on top-notch seasonal, sustainable seafood, but also the people who catch it. Rachel Walker chats with its infectiously enthusiastic owner, Sue Lucas.
It’s a Tuesday toward the end of November when I speak to Sue Lucas, exactly nine days away from the opening of The Fish Shop, her new fishmonger’s in Camberley, Surrey. Such a countdown is a nerve-wracking time for most. The electrician hasn’t quite finished and there’s a lot more tweaking still to do before Sue’s fishmonger father can cut the ribbon on 4 December.
But Sue certainly isn’t showing any nerves, just giddy excitement. “This is something I needed to do,” she says, with an air of disbelief that The Fish Shop is morphing from a distant dream into a tangible reality.
Sue has been in the fish business for decades, and along with her husband Duncan has become what you might call fishmongering royalty. Duncan is held to be one of the most skilled fishmongers in the UK, holding many awards including the Guinness World Record for filleting halibut. Together they founded Passionate About Fish, creating elaborate displays at seafood festivals and other events around the UK, running workshops, judging fishmonger competitions and generally working hard to “demystify seafood”.
Sue went on to represent seafood departments for major retailers, developing products and training staff – a job she loved. “But then I woke up one morning in April and realised I’m 50 next year. I’ve been wanting to open a fishmonger’s for about a decade, and thought: ‘If I don’t do this now…’”
The Fish Shop brings Sue back to where her career began, working as a Saturday girl at her parents’ now-closed MacKenzie Fish & Game in Camberley town centre – although that centre is a very different place today. Camberley is a classic example of the decline of the UK’s high street: where there was once a greengrocer, deli, bakery and all other types of food shops, there is now only a baker and a Sainsbury’s Local. Yet Sue believes that trend could be on the turn.

“I know a lot of fishmongers who have struggled over the last decade, but I think that shopping habits have changed in the last couple of years,” she says. “People used to shop only in their favourite supermarket, but now they seem willing to visit three or four shops. We’re opening a little way out of town, close to a butcher that’s doing really well, so I hope we’ll be fine.”

Consumers are becoming ever more interested in food, which is changing their expectations of retailers, says Sue. “People want quality, fresh fish and they really appreciate the information a good fishmonger can provide: ‘why not try this?’ or ‘I know the fisherman who caught this, why not tweet him a picture of your dinner, he’ll be delighted’.” She laughs. “It’s things like that – talking about the people behind the product, as much as the product itself – which make all the difference. That’s impossible with a long supply chain.”
The focus will be on premium, British, seasonal fish – and it’s when we start discussing what that means that Sue gets really excited. “Have you met Alan from the Ajax? I can’t wait to have his hake on my counter that first week, so I can say to him ‘look, I’m selling your fish!’.”
She rattles through the network of contacts she’s built-up over the years, particularly from Newlyn and Brixham, such as Dreckly Fish and Newlyn Fish. “I know they will give me the absolute best quality available anywhere. I’m also working with the wonderful Jimmy Buchan, from the Trawlermen TV series. His company, Amity Fish, is all about quality and provenance, so I’m really looking forward to selling some of Scotland’s finest seafood too. Fishermen are really getting on board with provenance now: they also now realise that it’s all about people, and that consumers like to know these things.”
Sue will also be picking up imports like tuna and king prawns from Billingsgate and The Fish Shop will cook its own lobsters, dress its own salmon and make fish cakes too, all in an open kitchen so shoppers can see what’s going on. And Sue laughs with excitement about how she and Duncan will finally get to do one of their legendary displays in their own shop window. A dream come true indeed.
The Fish Shop
110a Frimley Road
Camberley GU15 3ND
Tel: 01276 66618
Tuesday to Friday: 7:30am-5:30pm, Saturday: 7:30am-4pm